It wasn’t until this NYFW that I was introduced to CHOCHENG, a womenswear designer label launched by designer Cho Cho Cheng in 2007, known for its impeccable detailing and its blending of modern dressing with old-world couture.
Cheng studied fashion and costume design at the Parsons School of Design and took an apprenticeship in Savile Row, London to study traditional British tailoring. CHOCHENG’s bespoke and ready-to-wear collections are known for their meticulous detail and 100% natural materials. All fabrics are sustainable and produced in Europe, many exclusive to the label and all garments are hand sewn in London following heritage Savile Row tailoring techniques.
The first CHOCHENG store opened in 2010 on Madison Avenue in New York, followed by a second store in 2015 in Beijing. While I haven’t had the pleasure of popping into the Madison Ave shop, I did get a chance to watch CHOCHENG’s S/S 18 runway show, which convinced me to add a trip to the Upper East Side store to my shopping list.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection was inspired by the 1957 film, Witness for the Prosecution, starring Marlene Dietrich and the glamour and femininity as exemplified by her personal wardrobe during the golden age of Haute Couture from 1947-1957. Comprised mainly of separates and knits, the collection featured a seductively fitted silhouette — jackets and dresses with nipped-in waists and padded shoulders are structured in supple cotton bouclé and finely heathered tweeds of cotton and linen, with touches of embroidered silk lace and signature handmade petals and fans as embellishment. Striped cotton sweaters were layered to enhance the classic tailoring with nonchalant modernity. Braided knit cardigans and neatly cropped jackets were paired with demure knee-length skirts and shorts, softened with touches of silk crepe. Inspired by Andy Warhol silkscreen portraits of iconic celebrities, the collection rendered in vivid shades of rose, lavender, violet and red detailed with hand embroideries of natural glass beads to impart drama and mystery, with a whimsical touch.